The Autistic Foodie’s Guide to Paris | Hanoi 1988 Sao Vang | Paris 4
France, due to its colonial past, is home to the largest Vietnamese community in Europe and Paris hosts a number of cultural, political, spiritual, and culinary institutions that bring a bit of Vietnam to the West. I will cover a number of them over the course of the next year, but will begin with the one closest to my heart, Hanoi 1988 Sao Vang on the Ile-Saint-Louis in the 4th arrondissement of Paris.
Hanoi 1988 Sao Vang is the place to go in Paris if you’re looking for a truly authentic Northern Vietnamese version of the classic Vietnamese dish, Pho. Pho is the national dish of Vietnam and is a soup based around beef (though chicken and vegetarian versions are served at Hanoi 1988 Sao Vang for those who don’t eat beef or are vegetarians). The soup consists of handmade noodles, herbs, and meat. It can be found everywhere in Vietnam, from high-end restaurants to street stalls.
I mention that Hanoi 1988 Sao Vang serves a Northern version as the majority of Phos that you may have had in Europe and North America are almost exclusively of the Southern variety. How does the Nortern Pho, or Pho Bac in Vietnamese, differ from Southern, or Pho Nam in Southern Vietnam? Northern Pho features a clear broth, green onion, garlic, and cilantro. It is a more delicate and complex dish than the sweeter, heavier, and more garnished version found in Southern Vietnam. The focus is on the elements in Northern Pho, while Southern Pho focuses on the big picture. I much prefer Northern Pho not only due to taste, but also because my autistic sensory profile likes simple, yet complex, flavors, over melanges of many flavors.
Hanoi 1988 Sao Vang specializes in Pho, but has a number of small plates like Vietnamese salad, spring rolls, and Bao (steamed buns filled with veggies, meat, or both) as well. For those looking for more noodle and rice based dishes, Hanoi 1988 Sao Vang has a sister restaurant, Ha Noi 1988, located on Ile de la Cité, where they serve Bo Bun, Stir Fry, and of course, Pho. I will be covering this restaurant in the coming weeks as well.
Not only does Hanoi 1988 Sao Vang serve up Northern Pho, but also serves a number of versions which one rarely can find, if at all, outside of Vietnam. These include versions served with sauteed garlic and one based on a Boeuf Bourguignon (a taste that became adopted in France during the Colonial Period). I have yet to ever find a Boeuf Bourguignon Pho anywhere in France besides here. The classics, based around both raw and cooked beef are also available. For those who are extra hungry, a donut or baguette can be served on the side to dip. The noodles are all freshly made on the hour and are perfect. On weekends, the chef prepares a variety of special noodles made from things like beets, spinach, and other vegetables and herbs.
The dishes pictured are:
Spring Rolls
Pork Belly Bao
Mushroom Bao
Pho Tai - Raw Beef
Pho Chin - Cooked Beef with Spinach Noodles
Pho Bo Sot Vang - Boeuf Bourguignon Pho
Pho with Sauteed Onions
Pho with Sauteed Garlic
From an autistic perspective, the restaurant is very much accessible, provided that you don’t arrive at the start of the lunch rush on the weekend. While Hanoi 1988 Sao Vang doesn’t take reservations for small groups, I have never had trouble finding space or had to wait more than 10 minutes. On the weekend the restaurant is open all afternoon and night, while during the week there are 2 services (12-3PM and 7-11PM). If you are going with a larger group of people I advise calling ahead to let them know and they can try to accommodate you with a time. The LED lighting is dim, the tables few and well spaced out from each other, and the kitchen quiet. It’s idyllic location on a small street in one of Paris’ most romantic and charming quarters makes it a lovely spot to enjoy the afternoon or early evening. The acoustics work well for me and I never have had to use my earplugs. The decor is fun, decorated with old Vietnamese advertisements and newspapers. The tables are a bit low, which I like, but may not suit everyone.
For all those looking for authentic Vietnamese food in the heart of Paris, or just the very best Pho outside of Vietnam, look no further than Hanoi 1988 Sao Vang!
Pluses for Autistic People
Calm environment
LED Lighting
Quiet and good acoustics
While the kitchen is close to the dining floor, it is silent and has no harsh smells
Tables are well placed away from each other and I had no feeling of being claustrophobic
The ingredients are very simple and all visible. For autistic foodies who like to see and taste all of the ingredients in a dish while eating it, this is a fantastic spot.
Hanoi 1988 Sao Vang
Address: 16 rue le Regrattier, 75004 Paris, France
Phone: 06 65 02 22 89
Website: www.instagram.com/hanoi.1988.saovang
Open 7 Days a Week, with non-stop service on the weekend
